I rolled out of Banja Luka at 7:45 a.m., feeling fresh and ready for the 55 km ride south to Mrkonjić Grad. Fast forward to 5 p.m., and there I was—still up on the mountain range, sipping water and thinking, “Only 20 km to go…” The views were worth every uphill push though—autumn colours glowing gold and red, cowbells, goat bells, and donkey jingles creating the perfect mountain soundtrack.
Along the way, I passed two elderly farmers with their beautiful horses and carts (managed to catch one on camera), and waved to several more. A few of the farms looked to be run by the ladies—tough, capable, and always smiling. Big waves, thumbs up, and plenty of encouragement kept me pedalling. One kind gentleman even trudged down from his paddock to tell me I was going the wrong way… it happens!
At one point, I was dreaming aloud: “All I need now is a comfy chair and a cold beer.” Like magic, I turned a corner and—voilà—an old recliner chair sitting in a bus stop! Sadly, no beer in sight. It was only 11:45 a.m., though technically 5 p.m. somewhere, right?
Today came with a few lessons. The climbs were long, and there aren’t many places to stay between towns. But I’m certain that if I’d been stuck up on that mountain, one of the lovely farmers would’ve either given me a lift down or offered a bed for the night. The warmth and friendliness here, is so genuine—it’s truly refreshing.
In total: 55 km covered, countless hills walked, and 44,441 steps clocked! Mrkonjić Grad turned out to be a big town, and something tells me I’ll be feeling this one tomorrow. A hot bath with salts and a massage sound like heaven right now… and maybe a day of rest to follow. If only I had a bath!
