Last night while plotting my route for today, my navigation app decided to — flashing warnings like “some parts of this route may not be rideable.” Hmm… encouraging start! But, as always, curiosity (and optimism) won.
Leaving Jajce, I followed my Komoot navigation only to be stopped by two friendly security guards who, quite rightly, didn’t want me cycling through their factory grounds. They kindly gave me detailed directions to detour around — complete with arm gestures and distances — and sure enough, I was soon back on track. Faith in humanity (and Komoot) restored!
Today marked my first time on an official trail — the 06 Old Rail Trail. Despite the name, I didn’t spot a single rail. Instead, I followed twin tyre tracks winding beside a peaceful river. At one point, I noticed an abandoned tunnel off to the right, now serving only as a quiet memory of what once was.
The trail was lined with berries galore — blackberries, bright red berries, and something pretending to be blueberries (definitely impostors). But it wasn’t all smooth pedalling; about 7 km turned into a jungle of overgrown plants, rocks, and muddy puddles… courtesy of cows who clearly treat the path as their personal bathroom. My shoes now have a new eau de farmyard fragrance — not exactly the scent I’d hoped to bring to Bosnia!
Finding a lunch spot proved tricky, but eventually I found a little embankment near a paddock of buzzing beehives — a perfectly odd but peaceful picnic companion. As I munched on cheese and crackers, the kind property owner sent out his daughter (still in her dressing gown and gumboots — rural chic!) to check if I was okay.
Later in a nearby village, an elderly man stopped me with a smile and handed me two organic apples. Then, seeing I had space in my bag, he dashed off to bring me two more. Such simple, beautiful kindness. He declined a photo — some moments are best kept just in the heart.
By the time I rolled into Donji Vakuf, gentle rain began to fall — perfect timing, as it hasn’t stopped since. Tomorrow’s forecast promises clearer skies until late afternoon. Fingers crossed! Next stop: Kupres — edging closer to Southern Croatian border and a little further south toward Mostar.
A day of detours, mud, bees, and pure Bosnian generosity — not bad for a trail “that might not be constructed yet.”