Today felt like a celebration of Bosnian gentlemen — in all their curious, kind, and quietly heroic ways.
I started the morning in the lovely little town of Donji Vakuf, enjoying a breakfast that could’ve easily doubled as lunch (and maybe dinner too). Let’s just say I drew the line at the ice-cream-scoop of butter cream perched on top of my carrot and cucumber — that was a creative touch I wasn’t quite ready for before coffee!
Soon after setting off, the rain began to fall, and I spotted a coffee shop that looked, well… rather male-dominated. An elderly gentleman arrived at the same time, gave me a puzzled look, and I just smiled and said “Kafa?” — coffee being the universal icebreaker. He grinned and ushered me in, where I was greeted by about twenty Muslim men, mid-conversation and equally surprised to see me. After a few curious glances, the man said something in Bosnian and the room relaxed. He even bought me a coffee — a sweet, unexpected gesture of hospitality.
I couldn’t resist snapping a photo of the hookahs, also known as shishas or water pipes.They’re used for smoking flavored tobacco (called “shisha” or “nargile”), where the smoke passes through water before being inhaled — which cools and filters it. The large glass base holds the water, while the tall metal stem and flexible hose are used to draw the smoke.
They’re a common sight in cafes across Bosnia and the Balkans, especially in places with Middle Eastern or Ottoman cultural influences.
Once the rain cleared, I pedaled on — only to find myself debating whether to continue up a busy mountain highway. My gut said no, and sure enough, my angel appeared in the form of Nikola, a kind local who stopped to tell me it wasn’t safe to ride further. Without hesitation, he loaded my bike and gave me a lift to the top of the mountain.
Thanks to Nikola, I rolled into Kupres earlier than planned, where the rest of the day was blissfully quiet — laundry done, a good movie on, and a warm apartment to retreat to.
Another day of kindness, culture, and unexpected connections — Bosnia, you never fail to surprise me.