I woke to a crisp but beautiful morning and set off on the 2.5 km walk to the trailhead. Somewhere along the way, I found myself musing, “Bosnia is a Muslim country… so why don’t the ladies wear headscarves?”
A little mid-walk Googling (as one does) revealed the answer! While Islam is the largest religion here, Bosnian Muslims — or Bosniaks — tend to practice a moderate, often secular form of Islam. A few interesting tidbits I learned:
🌿 Cultural tradition vs. religious expression:Bosnian Islam developed under both Ottoman and European influences, creating a beautiful blend of faith and culture rather than strict conservatism.
🕊️ Freedom of choice:Modern Bosnia is wonderfully diverse. Women wear (or don’t wear) the hijab entirely by personal preference — not pressure.—
The trail itself was pure autumn magic. A thick carpet of golden leaves, crisp air, and a peaceful silence broken only by crunching footsteps. The hike led to a monument for fallen soldiers — serene and reflective — before looping onto a smaller path.
Along the way, I spotted some gorgeous fungi… and, rather unexpectedly, a Bosnian man half-hiding behind a tree! I think I startled him as much as he startled me. After some awkward laughter and a brief game of international charades, we went our separate ways — both smiling.
Back on flatter ground, I followed the riverside, where families were out enjoying their Sunday strolls. The views were stunning — calm water, vibrant trees, and that perfect afternoon light.
Just before leaving the path, I spotted a small snake slithering across the way — likely a harmless grass or river snake. Surprising, as I thought it’d be too cold for reptiles today! Turns out Bosnia has around 13–15 species of snakes, but only three are venomous. The common European Adder prefers the cooler mountain forests — thankfully, none introduced themselves on my hike today.
Fifteen kilometres later, I called it a day. With such beauty and warmth here, I’ve decided to stay another night and head off from Banja Luka on Tuesday morning.