A couple of hours disappeared (as museums tend to do) inside the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, which is basically a greatest-hits album of human history — from the Paleolithic and Neolithic periods through the Early Bronze Age, right up to powerful civilizations like the Hittites and Urartians. The museum’s collection shows how writing, trade, religion,…
Over tea, Vildan was sharing stories about her two sisters who still live in the South Eastern Anatolia region where she was born. She was explaining how, especially in more rural parts of Turkey, big families are pretty common and family connections run deep. The conversation then took one of those turns that makes you…
Every Saturday, Vildan teaches two very different students — one just beginning life at five years old, and the other, Dilek, already carrying the weight of real-world disappointments at 28. Dilek is Turkish-Bulgarian and now living in the Netherlands. She studied Physics at university, chasing a future built on knowledge, curiosity, and hard work… but…
Last night was an absolute blast — 12 people turned up and Vildan only knew two of them! The mix of backgrounds was incredible: special forces, a PE teacher, a consulate advisor, a tourism consultant, and one very intriguing lady who described herself only as a “public servant” from a department she couldn’t name. English…
Sightseeing around Ankara is a mix of ancient history and modern city life, with beautiful old streets tucked between busy urban areas. Ankara Castle sits high above the city and has protected it for thousands of years, with parts dating back to ancient times and later rebuilt by several empires. Around the castle is the…
Sabiha Sertel wasn’t just ahead of her time — she pretty much ignored the idea that time should limit her at all. Born in 1895 in what is now Thessaloniki, she grew up during huge world changes and decided early on that women deserved a voice in shaping the future. After studying sociology in the…
Yesterday I visited the Ulucanlar Prison Museum — incredibly informative and creatively presented, right down to the background audio of daily chatter and sounds that once filled the prison walls. It’s one of those places that quietly pulls you into the past while you wander through. Ulucanlar Prison originally opened in 1925, after first being…
In Ankara, gaming isn’t just a hobby — it’s practically a social institution, loved by everyone from students to seasoned pros. Vildan has been running these game nights for years, and the formula is beautifully simple: post an open invitation, name a café, and let people sign up. Apparently, if a foreigner is involved, interest…
Getting to know Vildan is like opening a book you can’t put down — equal parts brilliance, resilience, and infectious laughter. She is incredibly intelligent, wonderfully endearing, weathered by life yet still bubbling with joy. At 42, she jokes cheerfully about being a “42-year-old virgin still waiting for the right man,” delivering the line with…
All booked right through until I return to Mexico on the 23rd of March — it’s amazing how quickly the calendar fills when life is lived on the move. For now, I’m happily settled in Ankara with Vildan, soaking up a moment of calm before launching into sightseeing tomorrow. From Ankara, I’ll be flying north…