Up early to a beautifully warm room, coupled with the mildly terrifying knowledge that it was –5°C outside. I set off to tackle Afyonkarahisar Castle.
Perched dramatically high above the city, Afyonkarahisar Kalesi is impossible to ignore. Built atop a steep volcanic rock more than 1,000 feet above the city, it’s one of central Turkey’s most iconic sights. The climb is not for the faint-hearted — over 700 steps — but the promise of sweeping panoramic views kept me putting one icy foot in front of the other.
The castle’s story stretches back to the Hittites, with later chapters added by the Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans. While only fragments of walls and towers remain, the atmosphere is still heavy with history. Even the name Afyonkarahisar — “Opium Black Fortress” — sounds suitably dramatic, a nod to the region’s poppy past and the dark volcanic rock beneath the fortress.
Sadly, just as victory (and the flagpole) felt within reach, my journey was stopped by a couple of very large rocks blocking the final entrance. I searched in vain for the magic button to open them, but with ice-slicked steps and snow underfoot, scaling them was definitely not on today’s adventure list. I was later told the top would have been closed due to snow — which made me feel slightly better about my defeat.
Even without reaching the summit, the views were absolutely worth it. The cold soon gave way to warmth from the climb, and I headed back down with rosy cheeks, thawed fingers, and the quiet satisfaction of having challenged a fortress… even if it won this round.
