Paraguay: Feathers, Friendly Faces and Seriously Good Empanadas

I arrived in Paraguay with very few expectations, mainly because I kept reading that it is one of the least travelled countries in the world. Well, after less than 24 hours in Asunción, I’m already wondering why!

The first thing I’ve noticed is the people. They are incredibly friendly and welcoming. People make eye contact, acknowledge you as they pass and cheerfully say “Adiós” or “¿Qué tal?” It’s such a simple thing, but it makes a city feel instantly warmer.

There is also a wonderful buzz around town at the moment, with Indigenous communities arriving for the festival. Their traditional crafts are absolutely incredible, and the feathers, elaborate headdresses and colourful clothing are simply spectacular. Tomorrow brings the big parades, so I’m looking forward to seeing all that colour and tradition come alive in the streets.

The architecture has also caught my eye. There’s a fascinating mixture of Spanish colonial, traditional Paraguayan and more European influences, with some wonderfully weathered old buildings sitting alongside more modern ones. It gives parts of the city a slightly faded, romantic character — the sort of place where every building looks as though it has a story to tell.

And then there are the empanadas.

Oh. My. Goodness.

Today I discovered Don Vito, a Paraguayan empanada franchise, and I may have found another reason to stay in the country longer than planned. They’re smaller than the giant Argentinian empanadas, that were only consumed if nothing else was available, but what they lack in size they certainly make up for in filling. Packed with deliciousness and absolutely wonderful.

So, less than 24 hours in Paraguay and already I have friendly people, spectacular Indigenous crafts, colourful festivals, fascinating architecture and excellent empanadas.

Tomorrow: the parades!

I have a feeling Paraguay may be about to surprise me. And I’m very happy to let it.